The brutal history that gave us glorious Chai and our beloved Chaiwallahs

Whenever I visit Delhi, I like to stop at a local chai shop. “Shop” is a bit of an overstatement in many cases; there is often no banner, no shop structure and only the basic equipment for brewing chai – a large aluminium pan, an aluminium kettle which actually functions as a teapot, a kerosene stove, cups or glass tumblers, a few stools and the ingredients. The more established chaiwallahs who have a “permanent” spot on a pavement or outside a shop also sell small items like betel nut pouches, biscuits and other snacks.